CHARLESTON, W.VA. West Virginia should be called the railroad state.
Even though today it remains “wild and wonderful” and one of the most rugged places in the country, West Virginia saw few strangers before gutsy entrepreneurs figured out a way to haul the state’s immense coal and timber resources beyond its steep borders. Then, in 1852, the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad was completed to Wheeling, passing through Harpers Ferry, Martinsburg and Grafton, setting the stage for the industrial revolution that would change West Virginia’s landscape forever.
During the Civil War, many of the skirmishes, battles and troop movements in what is now West Virginia, were due to the struggle to control the region’s railroads. It was after the Civil War, though, that the railroad truly exposed the region, allowing the coal and timber industries to prosper. Railroad, lumber and mining towns popped up overnight. Famous railroad magnates such as Collis P. Huntington and Henry Gassaway Davis built their fortunes and West Virginia’s economy as they laid more track to connect West Virginia’s vast reserves to the rest of the country.
The railroads conquered territory previously thought too rugged for mass transportation, such as the New River Gorge, and they brought immigrants and good-paying jobs to the coal towns. Short-line railroads near lumber towns such as Cass, called for specialized gear-driven locomotives to haul logs off steep slopes.
West Virginia prospered through much of the 20th Century as the railroads expanded and the country called upon the state’s natural resources to help fuel its war efforts. Towns such as Thurmond and Bramwell developed a “Wild West” aura and boasted millionaires at a time when the entire country’s millionaires could be counted on your fingers and toes.
The railroad still plays a strong part in the state’s economy, hauling coal on hopper cars and passengers via Amtrak, but the highways and cars bring most of the people here nowadays. For most people who come to West Virginia, rail lines are instead looked upon nostalgically as a proud tradition and more of a thing of beauty and entertainment than of necessity.
The places the railroad conquered in the industrial revolution are now serene, verdant and home to waterfalls and bald eagles. Where miners used to go for work, tourists now flock to for relaxation. Many miles of former rail lines have become incredibly scenic trails that traverse some of the most remote territory in the Eastern United States.
At Cass, one of the country’s most productive lumber towns in its heyday, curious children and railroad enthusiasts eagerly await the annual spring ritual of Railfan Weekend. The sound of those great steam whistles signals the beginning of the summer tourist season. The state park here has the world’s largest and most impressive collection of antique Shay steam locomotives, which now transport tourists, instead of lumber, up Cheat Mountain and on to Bald Knob where they witness some of the most beautiful and rugged territory in the Appalachians.
In 2005, Cass celebrates the 100th anniversary of Shay #5, making it one of the oldest engines in continuous service on its original line. The state of West Virginia has designated the locomotive the state’s official train and a birthday celebration continues throughout the season.
West Virginia also features the Durbin and Greenbrier Valley Railroad, which provides three scenic rides in three different locations. The New Tygart Flyer is a comfortable, climate-controlled, classic 1940s streamliner with onboard amenities and excursions from 1½ hours to 7 hours, riding along scenic rivers, through a unique "S" curve tunnel and a stop at the High Falls of the Cheat River, an area accessible only by foot or rail. The Cheat Mountain Salamander offers two round trips daily along the Shaver’s Fork River to the High Falls of the Cheat, or upstream to explore Spruce, an abandoned logging village in a high mountain meadow.
The third ride is the Durbin Rocket, which is powered by a Climax geared steam locomotive. This classic, nearly century-old logging locomotive was built for use in Randolph County and is one of only three in the world still operating. Passengers ride in an authentic 1920s caboose behind the hearty Climax as it puffs and whistles along 10½ picturesque miles of the Greenbrier River in the Monongahela National Forest.
In the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia, visitors can literally ride where eagles fly on the Potomac Eagle Scenic Railroad. In addition to unspoiled views of the famous “trough” area of the South Branch of the Potomac River, guests spy bald eagles soaring overhead on more than 90 percent of the line’s excursions. Highlights on the three-hour tour include historic farms, native wildflowers, evergreens, and mixed hardwoods in an unspoiled rural setting. In the trough, the water of the South Branch is so clear, fish are visible.
Throughout the year on special weekends and during the fall foliage season, the Mountain State New River Gorge Mystery Train, based in Huntington, offers scenic trips onboard modern equipment through the New River Gorge, to Hinton (another famous railroad town) and to White Sulphur Springs. The fall foliage trips are world-famous and sell out quickly each year. Special mystery train performances can be arranged for groups with staged murders included free!
If you prefer to walk, bicycle or ride a horse, you can still ride the rails on hundreds of converted rail trails. The gradual grades of most rail trails are perfect for bicycling and hiking and wildlife watching. Some of the more popular trails include the Greenbrier River Trail, the North Bend Rail Trail (both state parks), the Cranberry/Tri-Rivers trail and the Decker’s Creek Trail. The Allegheny Highlands Trail recently has gained acclaim for its unspoiled views, quality signage and eco-friendly access to some of the state’s most pristine areas. Dozens of shorter rail trails dot the state and they continue to expand as West Virginia’s trail advocacy groups work hard to acquire land and increase green spaces in their communities.
West Virginia’s heritage is deeply entwined with the railroad and, although the heyday of the railroad has passed, visitors can still enjoy the scenic wonder, fascinating small towns and wild rides that the first railroad enthusiasts did 150 years ago. Today the method of transportation ranges from steam locomotive to mountain bike, but the experience is always an adventure.
More information is available by calling Division of Tourism’s toll-free hotline, 1-800-CALL WVA. Callers also can request a free travel guide, calendar of events and other information through the number or the Division’s web site, www.callwva.com.